Nov 082014
 November 8, 2014

Growing marijuana is the best thing there is to do! Until diseases or plagues threaten your plants. In a short amount of time root rot, bud rot, spider mites or thrips can ruin your whole crop. The worst thing is, the symptoms are hard to see and usually not visible until it’s too late.

Spider mites and thrips are so small you won’t notice them until there’re hundreds of pests invading your marijuana plants. And molds like bud-rot destroy your buds from the inside out. Luckily there is a product available that works to prevent as well as cure your infected plants of pests and diseases. Click here to order.

Every day I receive questions and pictures from people on the support forum that are having problems with pests and diseases. Their problems are usually not hard to diagnose, but, before now, there was no product- a good product- on the market that could get rid of all the pests and diseases. That’s why we introduce Marijuana Plant Protections, the best pests & disease control system available. It consists of three products that will get rid of all pests, molds and diseases!

bug blaster marijuana plants growingBug Blaster

Kills all unwanted and harmful pests like spider mites, thrips, aphids, white flies and caterpillars. Among other ingredients, it uses pyrethrum and cinnamite and is easily applied using a plant sprayer. Apart from its ability to stop pests in their tracks, it also contains a foliar feed that strengthens the plants immune system, making it better equipped against pests and diseases.

 

mold control marijuana plantsMold Control

Works against diseases like botrytis, powdery mildew, leaf septori and rust. It uses, amongst other ingredients, neem-oil and potassium bicarbonate, which gives molds and fungi no room to develop. Because molds are so hard to recognize, it’s always wise to treat your plants preemptively halfway through your grow using Mold Control.

 

root protector marijuana plants growingRoot Protector

Uses bacteria that attack diseases like Pythium, Fusarium, Botrytis, Alternaria and Phomopsis. Is contains, amongst other ingredients, Streptomyces Griseoviridis, a bacteria that nests around the roots of your plants and feeds off of harmful bacteria that cause Fusarium and Pythium. It’s like having your own personal army of bacteria protecting your marijuana plants.

 

Check your plants every other day for pests and diseases. Colored leaves, red stems or dark spots on your buds are all indications that something is going wrong. A healthy marijuana plant has beautiful green leaves and buds without discoloration. Also check the bottom of the leaves and the stems of the plants. This is where pests like to hide.

Download my free marijuana grow bible and learn how to recognize pests and diseases. Also make sure to get our Pest & Disease Control set for when trouble occurs! Besides, losing a crop is more expensive than being prepared and striking preemptively. Get the whole set of the products listed above now with a 30% discount at this link here.

All top quality marijuana seeds are available in my marijuana seed shop. We ship seeds to the US, CA and many other countries. For any growing related question please visit the marijuana support page.

Source: ILoveGrowingMarijuana.Com

 

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About Robert Bergman

Robert Bergman is a master marijuana grower. Robert Bergman is the author of 'Marijuana Plant Care' and 'The Marijuana Grow Bible'.
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  11 Responses to “How To Get Rid Of All Pests And Diseases On Marijuana Plants”

  1.  

    That is a bold statement that this product works so well. I seriously doubt it, having dealt with every pest on earth over the course of 20 years and often having tried pyrethrum and all herbal products, including cinnamon derivatives many times. This is just a sales pitch for affiliate income. Even if this product kills adults spider mites, it cannot possibly kill eggs, which is the real problem with spider mite eradication. Then, there’s the factor of total coverage, which is next to impossible to achieve, especially with microscopic broad mites, the new scourge of indoor cultivation.

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      I hear you there, Jennifer! I was given a White Widow plant as my first plant I legally grew. It was infested with spider mites. I panicked and gave it a dip in a chemical treatment. It died hours later. The second time I got hit with the mites I was able to kill the adults, but every few days the eggs would hatch and I would have to kill them all over again. I used pretty much everything out there and they all worked just about the same. Which was close but not quite 100% every time. I ended up having to kill the entire genetic line because the mites wouldn’t stay gone. Fortunately I haven’t had anything bigger than thrips since.

  2.  

    I have Friends in NorCal that been having a severe problem with russett mites, and it seems like nothing is eradicating them, no matter what they’re trying.

  3.  

    I grow medically and got hit with thrips the first time I went and mowed the lawn. I forgot to take of my shoes going into my grow room. Won’t make that mistake again. Anyway, I got thrips in both my bud and veg room BAD. But, fortunately I followed my first rule of thumb: never panic and react to a weed problem. I’ve seen people cut killer plants out of paranoia, only to find out they could have saved their plants rather easily.

    I used neem oil and it got them under control pretty fast. I nailed them twice in the first week, coating every part of the plant. This includes the budded ones. After reading all the chaos on the web about thrips with not much info, I wanted to answer questions no one else could. So, here are the answers I came to:

    1) The only way to get rid of thrips fully is to remove the infected plants and clean your grow room. Beyond that, neem oil treatments can keep it under control enough that you will stop seeing leaf damage. But neem itself won’t get every one of them. just 95% or so.

    2) Thrips, at least the ones around where I live, don’t infest the buds of a plant. I have an EcoPlus illuminated microscope and I can see deep into the buds with it and out of the many, many ounces of weed that were affected, not one thrip ever went into a bud. Looking at a sugar leaf I figured out why. Thrips are kind of a cross between a grub and a grasshopper in appearance. They are unstable and can fall off a plant easily. They aren’t very strong and if they get stuck on something, they’re screwed. The oils and trichomes on weed plants are VERY sticky. Because of this, thrips won’t go near the buds or sugar leaves if they can help it. The one I saw was stuck and wiggling in a panic. This pleased me. It pleased me so much I smoked it. O.O

    One of the questions was, do thrips make your buds taste funny. The answer is no, because they don’t infest your buds, just your leaves. But, I wanted to give them a full answer, so I got a few dozen thrips, tossed them on top of a bowl and smoked it. It gave just the slightest chlorophyll flavor, but it was barely there. Otherwise nothing adverse. Just gross.

    The other question was on the neem oil. Can you spray it on the buds a week before harvest. the answer is YES. But don’t. First off, it’s always diluted with water. Water breaks down the sugars and nutrients in your buds…which is good because that is the stuff that makes your weed taste bad. But water also disintegrates all terpenes that it comes in contact with. Terpenes give your buds the taste and smell. So, the water part of the neem is not good. Terpenes will regrow, but slowly and not within a week.

    Other than that, smoking neem oil treated weed all depends on when you treated it and how you treated it. Too much, more than 2 times a week, will clog the pores of your leaves and kill your plant, as will an under-diluted amount. Spraying it with under 2 weeks left before harvest can, usually, give it a funky taste kind of like how it smells. Which is not nice. If done before the 2 week mark, however, the plant is able to process the neem out of it.

    Again, to answer the question of others who wanted to know if you can smoke bud with neem oil on it. The answer is YES! You can do it and it won’t hurt you or your buzz. You won’t like the taste though, I promise you. If you plan on smoking it anyway, don’t share it. Your friends will realize how much you really hate them if you do. But you can smoke it. You will do it with tears of shame in your eyes, but you can.

    Other than that, thrips aren’t as major of a worry if you get them as, say, spider mites. They won’t make homes in your buds, but they will vampirize your plants and either kill them, (I’ve seen thrips wipe out an entire tray of seedlings within hours), or make them weak, which affects the THC production. As long as your leaves don’t look like they have a bunch of yellowish burns on the leaves, you’ve got them under control. And seeing as how thrips are the most common pest of all the pests you can get, keeping them under control is often the best you are going to get. Especially if you grow outdoors.

  4.  

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3a493276b31f96c272e75459825a8edce4797664a38b88bddaf32afaedf932fd.jpg Plz help what’s wrong with my plant it’s the only one doing it out of 7

  5.  

    Plz help don’t know what’s attacking my baby its the only one out of 7 doing this https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3a493276b31f96c272e75459825a8edce4797664a38b88bddaf32afaedf932fd.jpg

  6.  

    http://www.discoverneem.com/neem-oil-insecticide.html

    “Your plants need help immediately. Since they are only two to three feet tall and in individual containers, you have a lot of options.

    Mites hang out mostly on the undersides of leaves. They extend a proboscis, a biological straw to suck plant juices. They lay lots of eggs, which hatch in a few days. The new generation matures in a period of days to weeks, depending on the temperature. Even if you knock the population down, they will return in large numbers in just a few weeks. The strategy here will be to knock the population down immediately, then to try to eliminate them over a period of two weeks. To do this, each generation must be eliminated as it hatches. If the plants are treated four times at threeday intervals, each group of hatchlings will be eliminated. After four treatments there are no more adults, no new eggs and no hatchlings left.

    The plants can either be sprayed or dipped. In this case, with small plants in individual containers, it is probably more convenient to dip them, which is faster and more thorough. When plants are sprayed, there is always a chance of missing spots.

    To dip use either a kitchen trash can or a tray that is at least 6 inches deep and long enough to hold the plants. The solution should contain neem oil, Cinnamite? and Mitex?, which is a combination of oils and garlic. I find that a mix of Italian spices and cayenne pepper can also be added to the miticidal spray. Use 1 tablespoon per quart of very hot red pepper sauce. Brew a hot tea composed of one tablespoon each of Italian spices and ground cloves per quart of spray. Strain out the spices and add the tea water to the spray. All of these ingredients are proven mite killers. In combination, they knock out the mites.

    Meanwhile, the buds are maturing and harvest is getting near. The treatment takes 10 days. The buds won?t be picked for another 10-14 days after that. That?s more than enough time between treatment and harvest.”

    Ed Rosenthal

  7.  

    I have out door plants. The leaves on all of them at the bottom of the plant started going yellow with brown spots. Now the plants are only just starting to head up and it is moving up the leaves on the plant and getting bigger’,,,’,,, can anyone please help

  8.  

    I recently had what seemed to be many things going on at once-first, while in flowering stage, the lower buds would turn brown and die, along with the leaves. This would work up the plant, finally attacking the main cola which was avoided by the disease until the end. Then, a very mild gray discoloration began, which I think was powdery mildew. I sprayed the plants with the milk recipe and it seemed to give them a black fungus which killed the plants, which were other plants in vegetative mode. So, there was the dying of the lower to upper buds in the bloom garden, then the leaf killer in the vegetative garden. There were black specs on the leaves, is this a remnant of powdery mildew as I have read, or insects?

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