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What Are The Best And Most Popular Marijuana Fertilizers?


Molybdenum deficiency marijuana plantsBest cannabis fertilizers

In order to grow huge and healthy marijuana buds your plants need the right fertilizers and nutrients. Just like an athlete needs a proper diet to achieve maximum performance level, so does your cannabis. Pump your buds to the max with these fertilizer ideas. You can make your own or buy some in your local garden centre, just make sure you know what your plants need.


Vermiculite And Perlite

Vermiculite and Perlite are two commercial pellet-type fertilizers made by heating mica to 1,400 degrees F. and 1,800 degrees F., respectively. The heating process causes the minerals to expand and become porous; the resulting white pellets can absorb water up to four times their own weight in water, they hold air, and they keep dense potting soils from hardening into solid masses when they dry. The mineral itself provides potassium, magnesium, and calcium that leaches into soil over time to nourish roots. Pellets of either fertilizer are further enhanced by saturating them with a combination of nutrients that are also released over time.

For hydroponic growing, perlite or vermiculite is typically used in a high concentration of 50 percent fertilizer, with the remainder a combination of water and peat moss-proving that it is hard to overfertilize with either product. Soil growers can get by with a much smaller ratio of one part vermiculite or perlite per ten parts soil. Perlite and vermiculite are most commonly sold in 0.4 cubic-foot bags or 6 cubic-foot bales. Download my free marijuana grow bible for more tips about nutrients and marijuana plants.

Marijuana Booster

Marijuana plants require a large amount of nutrients to grow properly and produce flowers. Plants make a variety of nutrients by combining carbon dioxide (CO2), oxygen (O2), and sunlight in a process called photosynthesis. In order to produce the maximum amount possible, however, the plant needs to have a well-balanced and nutritional diet.

Of course, putting a seed in the ground, watering it, and letting it get some sunlight will produce a decent plant, but wouldn’t you rather have a plant that thrives? Isn’t it certainly more enticing to have plants with giant marijuana buds that are dripping with THC? If it does, then you should invest in the right nutrients and feeding schedule. Click here for more information about Marijuana Booster.


When it comes to home gardening fertilizers, it’s tough to argue with a proven formula, and ready-made plant foods like Miracle-Gro have a long track record of success. I’ve watered my own cannabis plants with one or another brand of all-purpose plant food for decades, and the results have been satisfying enough to keep me using them. With them the engineering has already been done; all I have to do is mix and apply as directed. Along with water-mixed powders and liquids, there are nontoxic leaf-feeding sprays that some growers like and some don’t, because they may or may not affect how smoothly the cured plant smokes.


Stoners may recall a scene from the movie Nice Dreams in which Cheech complained to Chong that one of his plants was looking a little unhealthy. Chong’s reply was “Piss on em….” There is sound science behind Tommy Chong’s cryptic advice. Nitrogen is a booster to leaf and stem production and is critical to cannabis growth throughout the summer months. Almost as symbiotically, human urine is largely comprised of nitrogen urea, and it has served well for making pot plants thick with leaves for generations. The usual recipe is one bladdernut per gallon of water, sometimes mixed with a commercial plant food. Do not urinate on the plants (unadulterated urine will probably kill where it touches, for one thing), or onto the ground near a plant; always dilute urine in a water solution, and use the solution promptly to prevent the formation of harmful ammonia.

Wood Ashes

Where I live, the surrounding forests are mostly conifers, and most of those are jack pines. As a result, the sandy soil below them has a very high acid content that can be tolerated by few plants other than blueberries and bracken ferns—even cannabis, which generally likes acidic soils, cannot grow here without assistance. One simple solution has been to deacidify the soil by adding a caustic (i.e., lye) that neutralizes acids. Lime from your local garden center is made for this task, but an old farmer’s trick is to use plain wood ashes, blended in water at about one shovelful per 5-gallon bucket.

Carbon-Dioxide Generators

Probably every middle-school student knows that plants breathe in carbon dioxide, CO2, and exhale oxygen, O2, while animals breathe oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide.

It’s an ideal symbiotic relationship-or at least it was until Homo sapiens decided to pave everything. Just as human hospital patients experience faster recovery times when their lungs are superoxygenated, so can marijuana growth be accelerated in a CO2-rich environment.

Vinegar-Baking Soda CO2 Generator

Probably the simplest carbon-dioxide generator is comprised of nothing more complicated than plain white vinegar dripping slowly—about one drop every two minutes is ideal—into a 1-liter bowl containing ordinary baking soda. The acidic vinegar combines with the caustic baking soda in a chemical reaction that not only renders both of those properties inert but also creates copious amounts of carbon dioxide until the vinegar runs out or the baking soda is entirely neutralized.

Closet growers generally set up their vinegar-soda CO2 generators kind of like an intravenous (I.V.) drip used in hospitals. In its simplest form, a bottle filled with vinegar is duct-taped, hung, or otherwise suspended upside down over an open margarine container, or some other bowl, half-filled with baking soda. A hole punched through the vinegar bottle’s cap using a finishing nail permits its contents to slowly drip from the hole and into the bowl of soda below. I like to extend a small-diameter oxygen-can- nula hose from the hole in the vinegar’s cap, sealing it on both sides with silicone caulk that will prevent the hole from sucking air and causing vinegar to drip too quickly. I like that the hose enables precisely directing where the vinegar drops will land.

CO2 “Bomb” 

A vinegar-soda drip generator doesn’t work well in the outdoors, where open breezes quickly carry off any CO2 that is generated-along with a steady and unmistakable odor of vinegar that could, if the breeze was favorable, lead thieves or authorities directly to your plot.

For this type of generator to be useful it needs to swiftly generate an atmosphere rich in carbon dioxide within a small enclosed space that mostly or completely prohibits escape to the outside. A solution that has been useful consists of covering a plant entirely with a large plastic bag, the length of which is at least sufficient to reach the ground without bending over a plant’s top. Next I place a plastic peanut butter jar or similar jar that is one-quarter filled with baking soda and place the open jar upright under the tent formed by the plastic bag. Then I reach under the bag’s hem and pour a tablespoonful of vinegar into the jar until it begins to foam as it generates CO2. Reseal the bag against the ground, let the plant breathe for fifteen minutes, then add more vinegar to the remaining baking soda, stirring the mix with a stick to ensure that all vinegar and soda have been combined. Leave the CO2-filled bag over your plant for about four hours to thoroughly infuse its tissues, and repeat as you deem necessary.

You cannot give a plant too much CO2, but I prefer to use bombs at night, when there are rarely people around to smell them. I also feel better about covering up my plants at night, when the process won’t deny them vital sunlight.


I once used a mound of frequently turned-over five-year-old sled-dog poop to grow a thriving crop of thirty-three plants, of which twenty-two were females of several strains, with a harvest of 3 pounds of pretty excellent bud. Locals I spoke with were virtually unanimous in their opinion that husky turds would somehow fail to break down, decay, and return to earth, like every other organic material does. But after five years the oldest end of the scat mound looked and smelled like rich, black dirt, and it grew one of the best marijuana crops that I’ve had the pleasure of harvesting.

Basically, if it’s organic it will rot back into soil, taking whatever nutrients the original matter contained with it, available for infusion into the next plant. Composting kitchen waste and other organics normally results in an outstanding soil, and it can be accomplished in virtually any environment. Whether it be a heap in the woods 100 yards from your house or a covered 55-gallon drum on the roof of an apartment building, composting cuts down on a household’s contribution to landfills and generates a good supply of rich soil for growing in habitats where native soil is poor-or nonexistent.

Once you’ve established a compost heap, begin another while the first is left alone to decompose. Frequently—daily, if possible—turn the compost with a pitchfork until the contents are well mixed. This helps to maxi- mize decomposition, to keep its progression even throughout the mass, and to minimize transition time from rotting organic to black dirt. Frequent turning also helps to prevent spontaneous combustion, a phenomenon in which heat generated by microbes feeding on damp, decaying material under pressure becomes sufficient to dry, then ignite the very material that created it. Soft tissues—tomatoes, old hamburger, gone-bad potatoes— rot the quickest and fastest in hot weather, but under ideal conditions, expect your compost heap to take at least three months to become usable soil.

Note For Indoor Growers

Having highlighted the importance of proper nutrition to growing a kick-ass crop, I must also point out that, like spider mites, malnutrition is most often seen in closet crops, where root and living space is confined. Just as natural predators and the elements keep spider mites under control in the wild, so does runoff from rain bring in organic and mineral elements to periodically refresh the soil around in-ground pot plants.

When you pull up your marijuana plants at harvest, you’ll note that fine white root tendrils have spread from the original potting soil to draw sustenance from the natural soil around it, even in stony soil where a plant without potting soil wouldn’t grow. The richest potting soil is sure to be depleted of nutrients as a plant grows, starving it to death, but outdoor growers in many places can get away with using no fertilizer at all.

If you want to start growing, download my free grow guide and order some marijuana seeds. All top quality marijuana seeds are available in my marijuana seed shop. We ship seeds to the US, CA and many other countries. For any growing related question please visit the marijuana support page.

Source: ILoveGrowingMarijuana.Com



About Author

Robert Bergman is a master marijuana grower. Robert Bergman is the author of 'Marijuana Plant Care' and 'The Marijuana Grow Bible'.


  1. Thanks for taking the time to respond with the in depth info Chris. It’s much appreciated.

  2. Chris Parodi on

    Hey, whats up, haha yea I do like talking plants, takes my mind off the other BS life has to offer. It sounds to me like u have a pretty good grasp of things. Are you growing indoor or out and if indoor hydro/soil/lighting? I would start off using something along the lines of miracle gro quick start, which I believe is a 4-12-4. It is very important in the beginning to develop a good root system. A little trick (sounds kinda gay, but works) is to remember up-down-allaround when it comes to ferts. as in n=the greens, p=roots/flowering and k=overall health of plant. For vegetation stage you could try something like miracle gro orchid food, which is a 30 10 10. As far as transitioning goes, some people like to do a 50/50 of the fert they use for veg and the fert they will use for flowering before making the switch, same goes for starting fert going into veg. This will lower any risk “upsetting” the plants feeding process. A lot of people don’t realize the importance of P during the beginning phase and think its ok to dose only during flowering. Many times, these people end of with plants that are a full stick of dynamite with a quarter inch root. This my not cause any problems throughout veg, but when time to flower, the plants could really use a nice root system due to added weight and added demand for water/nutes. When it comes to K, it is nice to bump it up a little before flowering as well as during, as it can help promote flowering and helps the plant with overall noot intake. It is OK to mix and match ferts, it really is simple math. mix a 10-2-10 with a 6-4-4 and you get a 8-3-7 as long as you dose 50/50 based on directions. But, to sum up what I said, strong P until roots begin to develop nicely, strong N for veg then back to P. K should be increased 2/3 way through veg. Just browse around home depot/lowes and look for ferts with ratios that would work for you, don’t matter what the front of the box says, all that matters is that ratio. When it comes to additives, check out a product called superthrive, cost like 10 bucks at the depot/lowes. Been around forever, and is highly regarded in the growing of ornamental plants and I see products in the pot world that are basically knock offs with a leaf on the box selling for 3-4X that. It is a basic vitamin additive. That may work better then hormex, which I believe is a rooting hormone (could be mistaken). Rooting hormones good for very early stages, then a switch to something like superthrive for the remainder of the plants life. Sorry, probably rambled on, its late and I’m spun and burnt and should prolly crash. hit me back any time.

  3. Hey Chris, you said that you like to talk plant and it seems like you know what you’re talking about, so here are some questions that I’ve always wondered about. Those three fert numbers that you mention above I understand are for nitrogen, phosphate and potash respectively. Can you give me the percentages that you have found best for veg stage (I’ve used Miracle Grow, 26-3-12) and also for flowering stage (I’ve used 10-30-10)? Is there a combination of numbers that is good for transitioning at the time you cut the light hours back and jump start the flowering cycle or is it as simple as changing to the “bloom builder” numbers listed at the same time you cut the light hours? Is it good to use something like Hormex (B-12 I believe) throughout the veg growth of the plant or should that be something to use exclusively for transplanting? Thanks for taking the time to answer.

  4. Hey Robert. I read your comment about the “Co2 Bomb” and would like some verification. You said that you cover your plants at night and bomb them with Co2. I was under the impression that plants need OXYGEN at night and carbon dioxide during the day. Can you clear this opposition of information?

  5. Chris Parodi on

    vermiculite and perlite are not fertilizers, they are substrates. perlite used to loosen soil/prevent compaction and help with drainage while vermiculite is an inorganic medium used for starting plants off due to the fact that it is easy to root in and retains moisture very well. Perlite is added in most potting mixes at a ratio of about 10 percent. Vermiculite is a replacement for coconut fibers when starting of young plants from seed. THC boosters are a load of crap. Organic fertilizers are a load of crap, they are dirty, they smell and unused nutrients cause levels to spike. All fertilizers have three percentages on the back of the box. nitrogen, phosphate and potash. There is a ratio such as 10/10/10, meaning all levels are equal. You can use a fert like this throughout your entire cycle, it will work. For best results, feed high in potash for roots when starting off to build foundation, switch to a balance during growing, and a high nitrogen and phosphate when budding. DO NOT spend 100 bucks on miracle grow with a marijuana leaf on the bottle. save 92 bucks and buy the shit with the tomatoes on it, LOL. If you want to add a nutrient, buy superthrive, its 10 bucks a bottle and has been around for almost 100 years. It contains additional vitamins and minerals. Chemical ferts are the way to go, easier to dose and way cleaner. I come from a background in bonsai and aquaria, we made many of these same mistakes, wasted a lot of money. Lesson learned was a plant is a plant, modern farming=modern results. feel free to criticize me or ask me a question, I love talking plants.

  6. Chris Parodi on

    the problem with “muck” is that although high in nutrients, can very easily cause root rot or prevent free drainage in your soil. what I’m about to say might cause some debate, but you best off using a controlled growing environment with chem fertilizers. I do not come from a marijuana background, believe it or not my experience in horticulture comes from bonsai and aquaria. In bonsai we made many of the same mistakes that weed growers are making now. For some reason when it comes to gardening anything, people tend to revert back to ancient techniques. If you truly want to learn how to grow proper vegetation, simply apply modern gardening techniques. For outdoor marijuana I would use a raised bed. Use a mixture of sphagnum peat moss, perilite and Diatomaceous Earth. Make sure your peat is sphagnum peat, not that cheap shit. This will allow you to feed heavy and water heavy without having to worry about overwatering. The soil blend also makes gases flow freely. The DE and Sphagnum Peat will retain moisture in case you miss a day. You will be able to feed without having to worry too much about overfeeding, the fast draining soil can easily be washed out to rid fertilizer of plants show sign of burn. I don’t know why people don’t apply these methods to outdoor weed growing more frequently. Yields would be fantastic, you would be utilizing the power of mother nature while applying techniques used mainly for indoor aeroponics. One thing I will add that a lot of people do not know. Many people see hydroponics and automatically assume that it is ok for their plants’ roots to be constantly soaked. This is only OK in hydroponic growing due to the fact that you are injecting the water with oxygen/circulating it and keeping it rather clean. The roots of plants in nature do not like to have wet feet, this will cause root rot, which actually PREVENTS the plant from absorbing water. Also, for indoor growing, save yourselves the headache and invest in a paintball tank and a cheap regulator. That will solve all your c02 problems. I don’t consider myself a know-it-all by any means. I have just started to dabble in this type of “gardening” myself. But one thing I know from past experience is that a plant is a plant. I see a lot of ancient techniques being talked about on these forums, and a helluva lot of marketing. Get a modern substrate (fast draining, decent water retent, doesn’t break down/gunk up), chemical fertilizers and read about modern farming techniques.

  7. Hi Robert
    I read the free eBook and I just wanted to add that I like the Organic seed booster and Organic foliar nutrient fertilizer from Farmer Discounts.
    Great Results
    It’s Organic
    It’s high Quality
    It’s easy to use
    It’s Cheaper. A lot cheaper.
    I think it’s at http://www.farmerdiscounts.com

  8. A friend of mine has been using some stuff called Active Bio Juice and told me he is getting around 6 pounds per cubic yard pot. Not 100% sure what it is or how it works, but he has sworn by it. I am not a grower, nor have I tried it. I think it is at activebiosystems.com

  9. Anonymous Grower on

    Dude….Vinegar and baking soda is not the only way to make CO2. Use sugar and yeast. Much easier and you don’t have to create a drip system for it to last weeks. Sugar and yeast has no smell.

  10. gotdemgoodbuds on

    I used bat guano made by fox farms, and grew the worst crop I’ve ever grown. All it produced was a main stem with very few small limbs. The only bud was the top. My plants looked like an indian spear, pointing up. I spent a fortune, and got very few buds. In my opinion, bat guano is not the way to go.

  11. I grow outdoors, close to a beaver pond and marshland. I was thinking about using some of the soil, or possibly a tea made from it, that is along the edge of the pond. It’s a very dark, almost black soil packed with organics and a hint of a swampy smell. Just wondering if anyone has tried using some of that kind of super-muck in their growing, either as a soil additive or for making a fertilizing tea, and wondering if it is either recommended or completely discouraged. I’m hoping it will be beneficial, considering it’s such a plentiful, natural, free resource on site!

  12. I think that a gram per watt is a very good harvest. I prefer not to use co2 because it is a greenhouse gas and I don’t think it is necessary. By the way 1 gram per watt is very good, I have heard some LED light manufactures promise that as a selling point.

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